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Evasion Survival, Alaska

   A  Mobile Survival Plan For Rural Escape & Evasion Survival  

My go-2 Camo

Old School U.S. Woodland

Dull/Muted Side of Partizan









Old  School British DPM

Faded/Muted Flecktarn
Digital Woodland (MARPAT)

 CAMCON
(Camouflage & Concealment)

CAMCON, or Camouflage and Concealment is dictated by the threat level for this Rural Evader and how elaborate their skill level will let them be without fuking it up. Too much or too little can get you made.. During the opening and following events of the hammer dropping the threat will be extreme. Thus my Camo and Concealment will be at its apex of visual, thermal and audible effectiveness. This will be where I don the Werewolf suit and other implements of concealment. These implements matched with the basic rules I have outlined for myself will suffice for even the closest encounters with OPFOR or other danger conjuring elements. However continues training is needed to keep creeping skills sharp. I will demonstrate examples of threat level C&C below and number hem 1-3. 1 being extreme threat level and 3 being the most moderate. I aim for a level 2 most of the time. There are overlapping factors that drift between all three. Practice and experience will show you the 'when and where' of this. Whats more is the variables will vary wildly depending on weather, fatigue level, kit on hand, speed needed, etc etc etc that will govern how I kit up.


LEVEL 1.

Slow deliberate creeping at the speed of glass with a high probably of contacting OPFOR while patrolling, tasking or moving from shelter to shelter...





LEVEL 2.



In between 1 and 3. Generally the same load but less complex camouflage garments for better speed and maneuvering with a high probability of OPFOR contact while patrolling, tasking or displacing from shelter to shelter....







LEVEL 3.

Generally just hauling the above kit when I explore to keep with load demands. Generally a mode for just moving about and training other then anything Creeping or OPFOR related.


Keep it simple...

I keep my camouflage pattern appropriate. I use the word "appropriate" because the selection of terrain matching patterns for my area of Alaska is not infinite. Many patterns are not appropriate for Alaska, with that being said Multi-Cam comes to mind. Like everything else in my E&E plan I dont have a lot of say or wiggle room thus I don't get to pick the camouflage. Terrain dictates patterns and for Camouflage & Concealment, there's no exceptions to the rule. What I wear here in Alaska is not what you'll necessarily want in Baltimore or someplace like steamy hot Florida, or the desert.. These areas will have their own finite list of appropriate camouflage patterns too, or areas where camouflage patterns are not appropriate. However even regular clothing is still a camouflage because in some way its delivering visual deception for the Evader-But that's another topic best left to city dwellers.. Its up to the individual to decide what will work best for them in their specific area, I'm not here to tell anyone what to wear..I will say you need to keep it simple, train often and be one step ahead with being and remaining concealed, and assume you're always being observed or hunted regardless of the situation. I have decided on simple woodland patterns that based on the garments durability, Utilitarian use, price, cut and fit, and of course its concealment abilities .

With very few exceptions I have found that most commercial camouflage patterns are not made to last nor do they deliver the most basic performance required to go the distance. Most are made with super cheap dyes that simply glow with a glare in normal daylight. The dye washes out with a few washes as well. Whats more I have found substandard issues in the stitching, zippers and buttons on these garments. Manufacturers know most of their buyers buy for looks over performance and thats where there quality lines are drawn. If I could give one piece of advice it would be to simply stick to Military Surplus Woodland patterns or be super selective if you use commercial garments. Surplus camo is durable, proven and super cost effective, freeing up funds for other aspects of ones preparations.

Snow Camouflage..A Level 2 CAMCON


Since the 90s my go to snow camouflage garment has been the simple German snow camo with the green fur tree simulating patches as you see above left and to the left. They are made from cotton and I love them.

The German snow camo comes in a two piece suit and a larger then life "poncho" that is large enough to cover thje person wearing it and thier rucksack without a problem. The Poncho aslo works as an excellent snow camo cover for a tent or Hide.. 

German snow  camo is drying up on the surplus circuit and they can push a hefty premium these days if you can find a decent set that will fit you. I recommend avoiding the Russian version of this.There is now a copy of the (pictured above) old School German Mountain Snow Camo suit on the market made in Germany by a German firm (Teesar). Its made up of a button up blouse that's reversible fur camo/white. I prefer buttons when i have a choice because I can fix them- I cannot fix a zipper or snap that has gone bad. The blouse also comes with a detachable hood thats plenty roomy and it has a small pocket on the outside chest that Ive found handy. The trousers have wide baggy legs that are draw string closed at the bottom. They are baggy enough to get a boot through and perfect for layering up, and also have the pass through slits for getting at clothing pockets under the camo suit thats proved super convenient. They have a nice elastic waist as well that always holds firm. .I much prefer this suit over any other surplus snow camo I can find.

I recommend the Evader always go for cotton with snow camo. Avoid the fuzzy fleece like abominations pushed on the hunting market. These will grab, trap and hold the snow to your body with horrible things to come from that. Whats more is that cotton is smooth and sheds snow relatively well and bleeds light less when wet so you wont have your woodland camo thats under the snow camo you're wearing shine through and ruin your white CAMCON. I avoid nylon snow camo garments all together because too much light bleeds through them as a norm and especially when its wet..

Generally speaking people make far too much of a fuss over snow camouflage. Snow is the easiest environment to disappear under. White is more then adequate for CAMCON  to employ yet each year Tacticool companies and hunting companies must re-invent the wheel by offering -much to do for nothing- overpriced snow camouflage in the promise to make you super invisible to man and beast.

Camouflage Rules for the Rural Evader.

Weapons Camouflage.


Why camouflage my weapons? A better question is why my weapon isn't camouflaged if its not. Otherwise I'll have a huge black thing in my hand that will contrast with everything around me and make all other C&C preps all for naught. If one has the $$$ Id suggest a thorough durable coating like one of those fancy dips or baked on sprays that apply a permanent pattern. Those are the only sustainable methods to keep a weapon camouflaged because when the hammer drops all the stores will be closed and UPS wont be delivering what you need..

If you're a poor guy like me then its a spray can. I like to mix Krylon with Hunters Specialty paints. I much prefer Hunters Specialty over Krylon but all my preferred colors cannot be found in one maker. When the pattern is complete I'll top it off with numerous coats of matt clear-coat and let it sit in the sun most of the day. For me this has proved the best method and one paint job can last me a year even with constant use of the weapon.

My preferred colors & Maker:
Krylon- Camo color Green
Krylon- Camo color Woodland Light Green
Krylon- Camo color Brown
Hunters Specialty-Forest Green
Hunters Specialty-Mud Earth
Hunter Specialty- Marsh Grass Tan
Krylon- Clear coat Flat Finish

Black is not needed. Black was added to camouflage patterns back in WWII by the Germans with their last camo pattern to be fielded. It was called Liebermuster and can be found today in the form of Swiss "Alpenflage". Black was added with the invent of night-vision devices and this was carried on by NATO later on.

Regardless a weapon needs to be camouflaged. Even if its wrapping it in appropriate colored fabric, it should be camouflaged. Wrapping a weapon can protect it from earth and debris, but wrapping wont last and can conflict with the operation of the weapon if not maintained. If you use the wrong fabric it can melt to the operator or the weapon with a hot weapon. If you need to wrap I recommend 100% cotton for this task

The Camouflage Werewolf Suit...

Úlfhéðnar

Face Paint

Brands I Use

+Hunters Specialty brand.

+US Issue Paint.

+ An older version of Hunters Specialty.

Second from the right is the older version of hunters Specialty. Ive found that to be the most useful with its multiple shades. It can still be found. The US military stuff is the least favorite of mine but its abundant and cheap and works but at a very basic level. I like a good pattern to I generally will take a few compacts with varied colors to get what I want done ..